🔗 Share this article

Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s best dining spots, one might foresee well-known Michelin-starred names. Yet, tucked near the top among these gastronomic titans is a simple salonu located in a far-flung corner of northern London.

A Unexpected Recognition

The compact Turkish eatery, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a prominent food magazine. The honour has left the family completely astonished.

“I am totally surprised,” remarks a owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their small shop achieving such a high position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

The compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a popular spot, has kept much of its former character. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking performance, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” comments the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the food, and this establishment certainly delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a succulent texture.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are added in slowly. As the meaty mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is rolled securely inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, resulting in it a richer, nuttier and less sickly profile.

Outranking the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, similar tasting menus at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

A Creed of Heart

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a role of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the traps of excess, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite establishments. “I am very happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a personal life but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s success is bound to resonate outside its own doors. “I think a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the wider meaning of this culinary honour.